The old seal beam tensioner is on the left, while the new spring is on the right. We also had to notch the headlight mount so the chrome headlight rim could be attached and finally a new tab was welded on the bottom of the mount for the headlight rim retaining screw. This provides the required clearance for the headlight rim. You will note there is a recess in the headlight housing where each rivet is installed. Since the headlight rim is a tight fit to the headlight housing it is imperative that the rivet is squeezed flush with the mounting surface. Read More: Speak Easy Green 1932 Ford Phaeton After bringing it down to bare metal a couple coats of Summit Self Etching Primer provided a proper seal and base for the finished paint. This tool does a great job of compressing the rivet and nicely flattening the head. We installed the aluminum rivets with a Super Duty Rivet Squeezer. While pop-rivets might suffice, we opted to use 1/8×7/32×9/32 truss-head, semi-tubular rivets. Once the mount had the Lucas Tri Bar headlights properly orientated, we simply drilled four new holes and riveted the mount back into the headlight. We could simply drill out the rivets and rotate the entire mount inside the headlight housing. A closer look showed the seal beam mount was riveted to the headlight housing. We considered moving the two seal beam mounts and the tensioner spring mount but decided relocating those three things was overcomplicating matters. After cleaning and painting we opted to bolt the brackets in place. The bad news is, after adapting the headlight housing to our ’36 Ford fenders, the headlights were rotated inboard by about 1 inch.Ī set of sealed beam adjusters sourced through Summit Racing provided the new nylon block-style adjusters that fit perfectly in the original bracket. The good news is the curved lens looks great and adds a nice vintage look to the lights. We had everything nicely painted only to discover newer halogen lights have a larger-diameter rear rubber bulb seal so we had to enlarge the hole to allow for the new lights. We had already rebuilt the seal beam mount with new nylon adjusters and a new adjuster tensioning spring (also sourced from Summit Racing). Part 1: How To Make Custom Headlights For Your Hot RodĪrmed with these new lights we set about installing them in our custom headlights. Drill the head off the rivet, then drive it out of the hole. The process begins by drilling out the rivets holding the original adjusters and single tensioner in place. A quick Internet search netted us a pair of these lights (and a little more flash) direct from a Jaguar restoration supplier. However, while perusing some Jaguar photos we noticed the Lucas Tri Bar headlights, with curved lens. We had originally planned on using flat lens, halogen headlights sourced from Summit Racing, as we had used these lights before and they provide great lighting and good looks. Both of the sealed beam adjusters were broken and the adjustment tensioner was also broken. The ’41 Chevy lights had seen better days.
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